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March 14, 2009 So you want to be a General Contractor….
There’s a reason why so many books are devoted to the ins and outs of acting as your own general contractor on a home building project: it’s a complicated and time consuming proposition.
Although you don’t have to be an expert on every phase of the process (there are subcontractors for that), you do have to make sure that the experts you have hired are doing their jobs. And you have to know which experts to hire in the first place. Also keep in mind that some states do not allow owners to contract their own home. And lending institutions have gotten very fussy about loaning money to owner-contractors. Be sure to check into these issues before you get serious about owner contracting your project.
Although you may stand to realize a significant savings on the total cost of contracting your own home by doing it yourself, remember that you will not be able to take advantage of the volume discounts that a professional gets. Even if your log home package is “complete”, there will be some items that you will have to go out and buy. Conversely, you also won’t be subjected to the mark-ups that contractors add to material pieces. However, the discounts that a professional receives aren’t just on materials. Subcontractors-electricians, plumbers, carpenters, etc. often will work for a professional general contractor at a discount. Let’s face it, to a sub, you’re just a one-time client. A pro may hire them again and again. A “loyalty factor” comes into play here a sub may very well stop working on your project for a time while he works on something else for his regular contractor. And don’t forget the “damage factor”. As your own GC, you may be tempted to hire the cheapest subcontractors you can find.
They may, in fact, be the only ones available to work on a do-it-yourself project since DIY’s are generally put on the bottom of a subcontractor’s list. The “damage factor” comes in when you find that substandard work has been done and now you’re faced with finding someone to do it right.
If part of your reasoning for acting as your own general contractor centers around a belief that GC’s have “gravy” jobs, think again. The entire project is in their hands. They have to hire reliable subs, do all the scheduling (and deal with problems that may arise when the schedule is thrown off), maintain quality control throughout the project and be sure to have all the necessary permits and insurances. As your own GC, you will have to obtain the proper insurance, make sure that your project conforms to zoning laws, and secure any building permits required by your municipality AND supervise the work. |
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In other words: expect to take months off of your job or lose all free time at night and on weekends for a very long time.
If you’re not scared off yet, you should at least have a healthy respect for the GC’s job. If not, your learning curve will be very steep indeed. Do yourself a favor: attend a log home building workshop. Even if you’re not going to do any of the actual building, you will get a chance to experience some of the issues a GC will have to deal with, and you will come away with a better appreciation for the complexity of a log home building project.
That, in turn, will serve you well as you start hiring and scheduling. If you’re in the early stages of finding a log home company, ask each of them just how much support they will give you if you decide to act as your own GC. |
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Some people have opted to hire a “construction consultant” to assist them. Although it varies, consultants may charge around 5 percent of the total building cost. Consultants don’t hire and fire subcontractors, don’t approve plans, don’t supervise construction. They will help evaluate land, draw up a budget, set a construction schedule, monitor the building process and be on hand to solve crises. Often times, consultants are former contractors themselves and will know ways in which to save money that never occurred to the do-it-yourself contractor.
Tips For Being Your Own General Contractor
· Plan, plan, plan. Expect to put in about six months’ worth of planning before actual construction begins. This will save you money in the long run.
· Make a written list of room-by-room specifications to avoid change orders and ensure good design; also saves you money.
· Put all your cost estimates onto a computer spreadsheet. You can see what you’ve spent and what cost projections for the future are. You can take advantage of bargains and limit damage from overruns.
· Buy materials directly. Most subs like to provide their own materials, but it costs more that way. Buy your materials separate from labor and avoid unwanted overhead charges. You may find bargains if you search yourself.
· When a work crew arrives to do a job, have the necessary materials on the site and in proper quantities.
· Avoid misunderstandings by communicating directly with the subcontractor and not with his work crew.
· If you’re a female, be aware that construction is still a man’s world. Be patient. It may take time to gain the respect of your subs.
· Before construction begins, notify your electrical contractor to install temporary electrical power and your plumbing contractor to install a temporary water hookup.
· Prepare for soil erosion by installing silt fences or hay bales.
· Keep a daily log of construction progress. Include notes from your meetings with contractors and an inventory of materials delivered to the site.
· Be on-site. You or your spouse should be on-site at all times to ensure things are done to your satisfaction.
· Run a clean, organized job. It actually saves money to have a clean construction site where tools and materials aren’t trampled and lost. · Ask lots of questions. If something doesn’t seem to make sense, trust your instincts and check into it. |
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March 2, 2009
SOME ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS IN… The Great Log Debate |
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Why does Kuhns Bros. kiln dry its logs? We’ve been in the wood products business for more than 50 years, and our experience provides compelling evidence that kiln-dried logs provide the most stable, trouble-free building material. We've conducted numerous joint research projects with independent researchers—including Penn State University’s Dept. of Forestry—to continually refine our kiln-drying technologies, and we currently operate 12 kilns at our manufacturing headquarters to dry our logs, beams, purlins, and other wood products.
How does the process work? Kiln drying is a complex science. Here’s how our process works. A stack of large dimensional lumber (or cants) is placed in a sealed building and the temperature is slowly raised to 170°F. Large reversible fans circulate the heated air to help maintain a consistent drying rate throughout the kiln, and the moisture-laden air is removed from the kiln by dehumidifiers. The drying rate is carefully monitored, because the outside perimeters of the cants naturally tend to dry faster than the centers. Uncorrected, this imbalance may cause severe checking (cracking).
How is the final moisture content determined? This can be measured in a variety of ways. The most popular device is the "moisture meter," which measures only the outside portion of the wood, which tends to be the driest. We use the much more accurate "oven dry" ratio method. Samples from each kiln "charge" are weighed, then dried completely in an oven and weighed again. The ratio between the two readings represents the average moisture content of the logs, inside and out. After the logs in each charge average less than 19 percent moisture content, they are ready for milling to the final log profile. The moisture content of Kuhns Bros. logs is guaranteed in writing.
How much extra does it cost to kiln dry logs instead of just letting them "air dry?" A few thousand dollars, depending on the size of the home. That's just a minimal percentage of the overall cost of the project, and we believe that it's the best investment you can make in your log home.
Why...what benefits do I get? Wood must be conditioned to the moisture content it will assume during its service life—otherwise, it will have a tendency to shrink and twist to some degree. You can see the final beauty and integrity of each log before it is placed in the wall, and you don't have to worry about what the home is going to look like after the logs have finally dried out.
But even more specifically: a) Kiln-dried logs are "pre-shrunk" before milling to a final profile, so the logs are stable and uniform compared to unseasoned logs. No severe shrinking or warping occurs. b) Any in-service checking, warping and twisting is minimized, because it occurs in the kilns prior to milling and final construction. Defective logs are graded out by trained inspectors. Graded logs are stamped with the Log Home Council’s certification for Stress Grades. c) Using high heat, logs are sanitized, killing mold, fungi (which causes wood decay), plus any Insects, their eggs or larvae. d) Pitch in the wood is crystallized, reducing the possibility of the sticky substance seeping to the surface of your log wall. e) Interior and exterior finishes can be applied immediately following construction, which is more convenient and provides immediate protection. Also, applications absorb deeper and last longer. f) More than 10,000 pounds of water are removed from the typical home, significantly reducing the weight of the logs. Even the longest logs are easily handled by two people. g) Properly dried logs provide the higher insulation values, reducing energy costs and increasing the comfort of your home.
Can air-dried logs provide the same benefits? The rate and degree at which moisture is removed from wood is dependent upon the temperature, relative humidity and air velocity of the environment. Kilns provide control over these factors. Air drying typically takes place in an open-air storage yard—with little or no control over the environmental conditions. While it is technically feasible to air-dry logs to 19 percent moisture content, it could take as long as two years of storage to reach that target moisture level. Plus, the local climate and weather conditions impact the seasoning of the logs, so the results are much more unpredictable. In addition, air-dried logs are not sanitized, the pitch inside the logs can seep to the surface, and there is typically a waiting period after construction prior to the application of preservatives and finishes. Finally, when building with unseasoned logs, allowances must be made for "settling" or shrinking of the logs after they are placed in the wall.
Will the kiln-dried logs in the wall shrink after construction? With unseasoned logs, yes—and it can be severe, depending on the moisture content of the logs. With properly kiln-dried logs, that simple question requires a detailed answer. Wood is a wonderful yet imperfect building material, in large part because it is affected by the surrounding environment, which can vary dramatically depending on your geographic location. Temperatures and humidity levels on the inside and outside of the home also impact the dynamics of log shrinkage. When solid logs are placed in service, the interior surface is exposed to relatively stable conditions compared to the outside temperature and humidity level. We kiln dry our logs to an average of less than 19percent to best condition them to these two fluctuating environments. The inside profile of our logs sometimes shows a small amount of shrinkage, but the center and outside portions remain stable and weather-tight. Our logs require no provision for settlement after construction.
Will the kiln-dried logs reabsorb moisture? After our logs are removed from the kiln and milled to the final profile, they are covered with a weather-tight wrap for protection from the elements. During kiln drying the cells in the wood shrink. Also, the sugars and other chemicals in the wood are chemically altered, and along with the minerals are left behind and deposited in the resin ducts and cell walls in the wood. These deposits help retard adsorption of moisture in the cell wall. After the wood is dried below 19 percent moisture content, the moisture content of the wood remains relatively constant unless the wood is subjected to high humidity or water. Logs placed in service in a log wall and exposed to a constant high humidity (90 - 95 percent relative humidity) will gain moisture on the outside portion only—but this occurs at a slow rate. Under constant high humidity conditions the moisture content will increase to a maximum of 20 – 21 percent after a very long period of exposure. Logs exposed to occasional rain may have the moisture content increase above 20 percent; however, the water evaporates from the log after the rain. Note that the immediate application of water-repellent wood preservative, which we recommend for all of our homes, plays a vital role in retarding adsorption of water that may occur due to exposure of the wood to high humidity or rain.
If I choose a kiln-dried manufacturer, what questions should I ask? More and more log home manufacturers claim to kiln-dry their logs, but unfortunately there are no industry standards. Some companies’ logs spend only a few days in the kiln; our controlled process requires more than 30 days for each kiln charge. There are huge differences in the logs that kiln-dried manufacturers supply with their packages, so qualify the companies you are considering by asking the following questions: 1. How and where are the logs dried? 2. What temperature levels are achieved in the kiln? 3. What moisture content are the logs dried to, and is the moisture content guaranteed in writing? 4. What process is used in determining the moisture content—moisture probe or the "oven-dry" ratio method?
How can I find out more? The best way to investigate the value of kiln-drying is to get a first-hand look at our plant in Lewisburg, PA. Just call ahead (1-800-326-9614) to arrange a personalized kiln tour. Or, if you are seriously considering the purchase of a log home, why not sign up for one of our Construction Workshops? Tours of our manufacturing headquarters are part of the workshop agenda, and you'll also learn more about design, financing, and get hands-on construction experience. For more information on workshops please contact us and we can tell you all about them.
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